4. 3D Printing for repair#

Goal:

  • Disassemble your object to access the broken part and its related parts
  • Analyse the broken part of your object to define if it is suitable for 3D printing or not
  • (re)Design the part, using a CAD software, to fit the requirements and constraints of its new manufacturing method (3D printing)
  • Manufacture your part and post-process it
  • Test your part to evaluate its quality and performance
  • Put it back in the device, make it work and be proud !
  • Document your process with text and images on your website and include your original design files with an appropriate license.

Electronic Parts#

The assistant gave us a box with an interrupter and a lamp, and the task was to find the broken part. So we tested every part of the circuit with a multimeter. In my box, it was the LED that was broken.

We learned about the SENSEO machine and the common problems of it due to a bad design. For exemple, the capacitor break often because people leave the machine plugged in, and the capacitor ability to store energy will wear out with time.

I thought I wouldn’t like the 3D printing part because we’ve already did it, but I found a new passion of reparing electronics circuits.

My object#

I brought a decoration object who’s back was broken. I couldn’t repare it because it was too difficult to model.

drawing
drawing

Lamp#

So I decided to repair the object that Milan brought. Our broken object was a lamp. The entire plastic part was cracked. Here was the original design :

drawing. drawing.

We analysed it and it was not possible to repair the plastic or to retrieve the bottom or the top part because the two parts were broken. It was therefore necessary to broke the lamp and to retrieve the importants parts (the socket) that were not broken. We also took the measurements of the lamp to design it later.

drawing.

Then I redesigned the bottom part of the design on OpenSCAD while Milan redesigned the top part on Fusion360.

Code#

I took the measurements of my parts who were important : the inner circle diameter and the outer circle diameter to place the socket as we can see in this picture:

drawing.

// FILE : lamp_bottom.scad
// AUTHOR : Moïra Vanderslagmolen
// LICENSE : Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 [CC BY 4.0](https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/)

$fn = 360;
outer_circle_diameter = 1.65;
inner_circle_diameter = 0.5;

// The bottom part of the lamp
module pied(){
rotate_extrude(){
translate([1.5,0])
difference(){
square([5,9]);
translate([10.1,8]) circle(10);}}

// place to pass the little notch and bulb
translate([0,0,9])
linear_extrude(height=0.1){
difference(){
   circle(outer_circle_diameter);
   square([0.5,1.62], true);
   circle(inner_circle_diameter); }}}

difference(){
   pied();
   // Place to pass the cable of the lamp
   linear_extrude(height=1) {translate([0,4.5,0])square([1,9], true);}
     }

Model#

Here is the model of the bottom part:

drawing

Printing#

Changing filament#

To respect the original color of the lamp, we needed to change the filament. To do that we need to go in the parameters of the Prusa Slicer and we put “Décharger le filament” and we wait until it reachs 215° degrees. Then we change the coil and we put “Charger le filament”. They ask if it is the right color, and while it’s not the right color we press “No”.

Problems#

We printed it, and when we were about to leave the 3D printer make her job, it decided to stop because it needed to change filament. So we checked all our parameters and nothing seemed wrong. We decided to change from 3D printer and go on “Vivi” instead of “Pikachu” and it worked.

Final Model#

drawing